GRAB! CLIMBER'S MIND Vol.9

Gramicci is now a fashion fixture in everyday life, but its roots are clearly in climbing. The brand originated from the climbing pants of legendary rock climber Mike Graham, who was dubbed the "Stone Master" in the 1970s. In this series of articles, we will explore the mentality and lifestyle of climbers who have been captivated by the sport, and how they approach climbing. The signpost that traces the origin of Gramicci once again embodies the essence of surviving in the present.

When CHOKU picked me up at the closest station, Kuriyagawa Station, to head toward “JAZZY SPORT MORIOKA / THE STONE SESSION,” he handed me a banana shake from a nearby drive‑through café with a big smile, saying, “Here’s your welcome drink!” as a handshake substitute, immediately revealing his kind nature. Through Choku's lifestyle, which enjoys the session between music and climbing, he explores a bright future for climbing.

――― First, could you tell me about your encounter with climbing?

It takes a bit of time to explain, is that okay? (laughs)

――― Of course, take your time! (laughs)

Thank you! Since elementary school, I’ve loved sports, especially basketball. Around the time when NBA broadcasts began on NHK satellite TV, I became hooked not on the games, but on the highlight reels shown afterward. To be precise, it was the Black music playing along with the visuals that blew my mind. It was the first time I felt the fusion of sports and music. I started DJing in high school, which naturally led me to work at a record store.

―――So NBA highlights are your origin story.

That’s what it comes down to.

Around age 20, I met MASAYA, who is now my partner in running JAZZY SPORT. One day he suddenly called and said, “Isn’t the name Jazzy Sport really cool?” That name contained everything I loved. The improvisation of jazz and the tacit understanding when passing the ball in sports— "JAZZY SPORT" perfectly encapsulated the synergy of music and sports. At that point, I was about to go independent, so I started the record store under that name.

―――That’s the store "JAZZY SPORT," which opened in 2002 in Morioka, right?

Yes, around that time, I received an offer from a friend, a dancer worked at Ishii Sports, sponsoring a competition at a climbing gym called "ONE MOVE" in Morioka, to DJ there. I thought I was just going to play music, but then he suddenly told me, "Why don’t you compete too?" (laughs). That was my first experience with climbing! (laughs)

―――What a surprising request! (laughs) What was it like actually climbing?

Honestly, I couldn’t do anything. But that was what made it fun. The next day, I bought climbing shoes immediately.

―――So you dove headfirst into climbing!

Of course, climbing itself was fun, but what fascinated me most was the relationship between climbing and music. When watching climbing DVDs from abroad, there would be intense lighting and everyone around drinking while the DJ played music. The inclusivity of various genres like hip-hop, jazz, soul, and funk amazed me—it made me realize that climbing and music could actually merge. I love the idea that when two different things combine, the coolness multiplies.

―――So it was just like the “basketball and music fusion” you felt as a child. Will DJing become the main focus of your involvement in climbing? 

Now I run a climbing gym and focus on athlete development, but initially, I had many opportunities to connect with climbing through DJing at competitions like "THE NORTH FACE CUP" and "Boulder Japan Cup." I also worked on T-shirt designs and logos for climbing gyms across the country, and although I haven’t been able to go as often lately, I love climbing on natural rocks. It feels more like a joy or relaxation rather than a challenge.

―――In 2012, you relocated to the Kuriyagawa area as “JAZZY SPORT MORIOKA / THE STONE SESSION.” What triggered the move?

After the 2011 earthquake, I began thinking about many things. I had been running a record store for 10 years, but with the rise of digital downloads, it felt like CDs were being phased out, and I sensed that anyone could create beats and produce music. I felt the urge to do something different, so I decided to create a space where climbers and music lovers could blend and create something new - centred around a climbing gym.

―――The name "THE STONE SESSION" evokes the idea of two elements coming together to create something new.

It signifies a jazz musician in a high state engaging in a session, which was originally the name of a unit I had with Masaya. The "STONE" resonates with climbing too. Additionally, our slogan, “DESTRUCTION AND CREATION,” refers to the idea that to build muscle, you must break down fibers, i.e., destroy and build—like a training room! (laughs)

―――So it’s a gym with a stoic style?

That's basically it, but instead of competing against others, we aim to provide a space for personal growth and enjoyment. In the centre of the gym, there’s a bright wall allowing for customized routes according to skill levels, and other walls practice the movements required for competitions.

―――I see that there are no grade indicators like you'd find in typical gyms?

Well, in competitions, grades aren’t indicated anyway, so I believe it’s more important to foster one’s imagination and thought processes regarding a route. Just like ramen having different spice levels perceived differently by each individual, climbers should check their grades based on their own sense of difficulty.

―――Are there diverse climbers coming to your gym?

Yes! We have young athletes competing, as well as older hobbyists. The older guys enjoy tasting the routes of the kids competing and sometimes end up struggling! (laughs) It’s like experiencing what it’s like to face the intensity of the World Cup. It’s similar to going to a batting centre to feel a fast pitch, right? (laughs) Even in a stoic gym, the older attendees blend in just like watching their children grow. Plus, one of the great things about climbing is that it’s a rare sport where you can closely observe top athletes.

―――Like watching Ichiro’s swing in a batting centre!

Exactly! It’s a culture that other sports lack. In other countries, national teams practice in exclusive facilities. It’s a unique culture in Japan that we must preserve.

―――Could you tell us about your encounter with Gramicci?

When I was in high school, I visited a select shop and saw brightly coloured pieces piled up—neon greens and after-dyed pinks. I loved it! I personally like shorts and bought about three colors! It was through Gramicci that I first learned the term "after-dyed," and I liked to use Anvil’s after-dyed bodies when making T-shirts with friends. (laughs)

―――I’m honoured to have indirectly been of help! (laughs)

I value things that continue to exist regardless of trends, and I believe that applies to Gramicci as well. You can always buy them at the store, and the Gramicci pants I’m wearing today have maintained their durable fabric and shape since their release in the 80s. You know how people used to say at old vintage stores, "You can wear this for decades"? Gramicci is exactly that. For me, it feels like the "501" of climbing pants.

―――That’s such a delightful compliment, thank you!

By the way, I’ve heard that the gusset in Gramicci pants is inspired by kung fu pants? I was amazed! (laughs) I’ve also been exploring insights from martial arts and the movements of pre-modern Japanese people for climbing and daily life. I think various pants were reviewed when it came to climbing, and it was decided that kung fu pants were great. The idea of fusing different genres is really appealing to me.

―――It seems the Japanese representative Ito Futaba trained here at "JAZZY SPORT MORIOKA / THE STONE SESSION."

In addition to the transformation in mindset after the earthquake, another significant factor in establishing this place was Futaba’s presence. Her father is my climbing buddy, so I knew her well. She was in 4th grade then, admiring Olympian Noguchi Akiyo, and I connected with Akiyo through "THE NORTH FACE CUP." So, I thought if we created a gym, Futaba could meet Akiyo and envision her dreams.

―――It’s lovely to learn there was such a beautiful backstory to the creation of this gym. Did they meet?

Akiyo came on the first day of the gym's opening, and Futaba was thrilled! When Akiyo told her, "Next time, I will come on this day," she wanted to improve herself through training before then. So she spent her days developing her skills until she eventually won the "JAPAN CUP" in her second year of junior high, defeating her idol Akiyo and making it to the World Cup. I didn’t expect it to happen so soon, but I had a feeling it would eventually take place.

―――That sounds like a story fit for a drama.

To support Futaba as she advances to the world stage, I also needed to grow as a coach. I learned route setting and menu planning independently and made the gym become more focused on training. Now, we have a growing number of kids coming from Aomori, Yamagata, and Akita, driving three hours to train here.

―――Just as Akiyo Noguchi was an inspiration for Futaba, now there are children who look up to Futaba training here.

Exactly. Among them, Melody Sekikawa, who is currently a member of the Japanese national team, has trained here since elementary school. I’m trying my best as a coach, doing trial and error to make her strong.

―――Since your roots are in music, does it inspire you in creating routes?

Actually, the process of DJing and creating climbing routes is extremely similar. A DJ creates a 60 minute story by selecting records from a collection. Creating routes involves selecting holds from many options and assembling them to form a story leading to the goal—it's the same process as DJing!

―――What are your goals going forward?

Well, I’ll just give my all to what's in front of me. I want to support Futaba, Melody, and the elementary school kids following them. I’m looking forward to continuing to enjoy this experience together with the older guys coming to the gym! (laughs)

―――Finally, if there's an ideal athlete you’d like to cultivate as a coach, what would that look like?

It would be exciting to have an incredibly strong girl who is also an amazing dancer! The joy expressed in her celebratory dance after completing a route would be fantastic! It's like Kazu Dance! (laughs) That’s a joke, but I am passionate about sports climbing, which is just one part of the huge world of climbing. I see it more as a journey of growing together rather than just training athletes. I’m really excited to see athletes emerging at the world level! Sorry if that didn’t fully answer your question! (laughs)

Photo: Kanta Nakamura (NewColor inc)